Birding on Zomba Plateau

by Eugene Booysen

The Zomba Plateau (or Zomba Massif) is a lush highland “island” rising above southern Malawi's plains. Covering about 130 km² and peaking at 2,087 m (Mlumbe Peak), this montane plateau offers cool forests, rivers, and waterfalls set against panoramic views. It's a popular destination for nature lovers and hikers. The plateau's forests and grasslands—first protected as early as 1913—now harbor rare birds and accessible walking trails. Mature plantations of Mexican pine and eucalyptus dominate much of the plateau, but strips of native montane forest and riverine thicket still persist. In clear weather, you can see Lake Malawi and distant mountains from the edges.

Ecologically significant as part of the proposed South-East Africa Montane Archipelago (SEAMA) ecoregion, Zomba Plateau remains one of Malawi's key birding hotspots despite deforestation pressures (charcoal cutting in the north has degraded parts of the Zomba Forest Reserve). A paved road (the M1) winds up from Zomba town, making the plateau easily accessible by car from Blantyre (about 50 km) or Lilongwe (about 230 km).

Zomba Massif, Hostory and Size

Historical Context and Habitat

Zomba Plateau's forest reserve dates to 1913, initially set up to protect watersheds. Colonial forestry focused on timber, converting most native woods to plantations of Pinus patula and Eucalyptus. Today, scattered remnants of indigenous montane forest and miombo woodland survive along streams and valleys. The plateau supplies water to the region (via Mulunguzi Dam) and hosts crops like strawberries and maize on its fertile slopes. However, intense woodcutting has been a challenge: the forest reserve's northern end is heavily cleared, while community conservation in the south has kept forest intact. Overall, Zomba combines planted forests, meadows and wetlands. Its streams and small dams (e.g. Mulunguzi and Chagwa) create riparian edges and open water that diversify bird habitat.

Across this terrain you'll find baboons, bushbuck and (common in the air) the loud green “lourie” - Livingstone's Turaco, whose crimson flight feathers flash in sunlight. The plateau's cooler, wetter climate supports plants like tree ferns, bird's-nest orchids and even Mulanje cedar (Widdringtonia). These natural settings and friendly guides (e.g. Zomba Tour Guides Association) make Zomba ideal for wildlife walks. For example, the Mulunguzi Nature Trail follows a stream through forest and past waterfalls, where you might spot small warblers and vibrant barbets.

Size, Geography and Ecology

Zomba Plateau is roughly pear-shaped, divided by the Domasi Valley into the Zomba (south) and Malosa (north) sections. Its core is granitic syenite (similar to nearby Mulanje Mountain), uplifted over millions of years. Steep cliffs (up to 750-1,200 m down on some sides) give way to a broad tableland around 1,800-2,000 m high. The plateau is covered by highland grassland, pine plantations and pine-cypress mixed forests. Miombo woodlands fringe the lower edges.

In the wet season (Nov-Apr) the plateau is lush and green; the dry months bring wildflower blooms in the grasslands. Its climate is Afro-montane: nights can be chilly (even in summer), and mist or rain are common. Ecological diversity is high for such a small area: patches of indigenous montane forest (especially along Mulunguzi River and William's Falls) harbor shy forest specialists, while open plateaus attract raptors and larks. Freshwater pools, dams and streams support water birds and amphibians, so birders can encounter woodland warblers, barbets, colorful turacos and open-country species within short walks. On clear days you may even hear African Fish Eagles calling from Liwonde downstream.

Birdlife on Zomba Plateau

Birdwatchers love Zomba for its mix of rare and colorful species. The plateau is one of the best places to see Malawi's highland forest birds. In fact, Malawi's only true endemic bird is here: the Yellow-throated Apalis.

Key Species and Highlights

Yellow-throated Apalis: Malawi's only endemic warbler with a bright yellow throat, found at forest margins year-round (breeds Nov-Jan). Livingstone's Turaco: Large green turaco with a white wing-band, often seen in riverine thickets. Olive-headed Greenbul: Noisy forest greenbul common in native woodland. Malawi (Cape) Batis: Black-and-white flycatcher found in Hagenia and riverine forest. White-winged Apalis & Black-headed Apalis: Striking warblers heard in treetops, especially Nov-Feb. Forest Weaver & Bertram's Weaver: Weavers flitting in bushes near streams and clearings. Pels's Fishing Owl: Scarlet-and-green owl seen at dusk along waterways. Malachite Kingfisher: Tiny kingfisher skimming dam edges and streams. Augur Buzzard & Long-crested Eagle: Raptors soaring above open grasslands.

Seasonal Patterns

Rainy Season (Oct-Dec): Peak birding as resident species breed and Palearctic migrants (Garden Warbler, Blackcap) arrive. Bright plumages and high activity make this the best time to visit—but afternoon storms and mosquitoes are common. Dry Season (May-Aug): Cooler, clearer days with fewer migrants but excellent visibility. Forest specialists (Thyolo Alethe, Apalises) remain, though foliage is sparser. Trails are quieter and perfect for dedicated birders.

Highland Birding Context

Zomba Plateau is part of Malawi's montane “islands” alongside Mount Mulanje and Nyika Plateau. Its Afro-montane forests, grasslands and riparian zones host near-endemics and highland specialists not found in lowland parks. Birders often combine Zomba with other highland sites for a complete Malawi highland birding experience.

Tips for Birding Zomba

Use a local guide to find secretive species like Thyolo Alethe and Pels's Fishing Owl. Carry warm layers for early mornings and rain protection in the wet season. Allocate at least 2-3 hours per trail, and focus on dawn and dusk when birds are most active. Bring binoculars, a field guide (e.g. Stevenson & Fanshawe), and snacks for longer walks.

Top Birding Hotspots on Zomba Plateau

Mulunguzi River & Williams Falls

A forested valley trail follows the Mulunguzi stream past a trout farm to Williams Falls. Expect dense evergreen forest with orchids and ground ferns, home to apalises, greenbuls and turacos. Look for streamside species like White-eared Barbet and Yellow-streaked Warbler. The waterfall splash and Mulunguzi Dam pool also attract kingfishers and African Fish Eagles.

KuChawe (Emperor's & Queen's View)

Near the Sunbird KuChawe Inn, short loops like the Emperor's and Queen's View trails climb to overlooks named for Haile Selassie's and the Queen Mother's visits. Sweeping vistas toward Blantyre and Lake Chilwa host grassland and forest-edge species such as Bar-throated Apalis, Garden Warbler, Cape Batis and Blue-spotted Dove. Grassy knolls often hold small flocks of sunbirds and weavers.

Songani Lookout & Chagwa Dam

A northern trail leads to Songani Lookout, a ridge-top point ideal for raptor watching (kites, buzzards). Nearby Chagwa Dam is a small reservoir where waders and herons forage along the shore. Bushbabblers and twinspots sometimes appear in the dense forest undergrowth on the return walk.

Chingwe's Hole

This long 6-8 hour hike descends to a deep gorge on the northern escarpment, ending at a dramatic sinkhole famous for abyss gazers. Alpine plants and larks replace forest birds at this altitude, and you might hear Mountain Yellow Warbler or insect calls. The sunrise view from the top is spectacular.

Zomba Forest Lodge Trails

Set halfway up the plateau, Zomba Forest Lodge has planted forest gardens and serene trails. It's a peaceful spot to listen for White-starred Robin or shy Black-throated Wattle-eye in the undergrowth. Early mornings and dusk often bring cuckoos and nightjars.

Nawimbe Fire Tower / North Rim

(Access may be restricted.) From this old fire lookout, sunrise offers panoramic light across miombo woodlands. Resident chats forage on the ground and you may see birds flying overhead.

Compelling Reasons to Visit Zomba Plateau

Unique Birds

Spot Malawi's endemic and regional specialties up close. The plateau's mix of evergreen forest and grassland means variety—from Apalises and turacos to crested eagles. Many birds here are easier to find than on busier Nyika or Mulanje trips.

Scenery and Climate

Enjoy cool mountain air and scenic overlooks (e.g., Emperor's View) without battling crowds or heat. The lush forest, tranquil dam, and ferny gorges make birding a joy.

Trails for All Levels

Well-marked walks range from easy forest loops (great for beginners) to challenging ridge hikes (for the adventurous). The diversity of trails lets you tailor your birding day to your fitness level.

Accessibility

Zomba is only a short drive from Blantyre (and reachable from Lilongwe by road). Unlike remote parks, you don't need a 4x4 except in heavy rains. Guides or hotel chauffeurs can bring you up comfortably.

Comfortable Stay

Pair birding with a lodge retreat—KuChawe Inn has an on-site restaurant and bar, while Zomba Forest Lodge offers eco-friendly charm. Both cater well to birdwatchers.

Affordability

Malawi is generally cheaper than many safari destinations. Entry fees are low, local guides are inexpensive, and the plateau is a budget-friendly alternative to private game parks.

Wildlife Bonus

Beyond birds, look for bushbucks, monkeys, and maybe serval or genet. And don't forget the waterfalls and starry nights!

All these factors make birding on Zomba Plateau a rewarding choice. Nyoni Safaris calls Malawi a “hidden birding paradise” with 650+ species in diverse habitats. A few nights at Zomba Plateau lets you tick off highland endemics in comfort before moving on to the bush.

How to Get There (Travel Info)

By Road

Zomba Plateau is easiest reached by car. From Blantyre's Chileka Airport it's ~57 km north (about a 1-hour drive) on the M1 towards Lilongwe. From Lilongwe Airport it's ~230 km south (3-4 hours) via the M1. Roads up the plateau are partly paved but can be rough in spots; during the rainy season (Nov-Apr) a 4x4 or sturdy sedan is recommended.

There is also a minibus from Zomba town to the plateau entrance. For tourists, the usual route is Lilongwe → Zomba town, then taxi or pre-arranged transport up to the plateau. Zomba town (the old colonial capital) has guesthouses if needed.

By Air & Charter

Fly into Lilongwe or Blantyre. There are no scheduled commercial flights to the plateau itself, but charter flights can land on the small airstrip at Chelinda (if pre-booked). Private guides or lodge drivers can collect you from Sunbird KuChawe or Zomba Forest Lodge to start your hikes.

In summary: fly into Lilongwe or Blantyre, hire a car or arrange a tour, and drive up the M1 to Zomba. Plan to stay overnight on the plateau to enjoy early-morning birding. Always check local conditions—heavy rain or fog can slow travel, so allow extra time.

Accommodation for Birders

Sunbird KuChawe Inn

A mid-range hotel at 1,600 m elevation on the plateau edge. It has 37 air-conditioned rooms, a restaurant, and bar. The grounds attract weavers, doves, and other birds, and trails start right from the hotel.

Zomba Forest Lodge

An eco-friendly bungalow lodge set in 20 acres of native woodland. Off-grid and peaceful, it offers cabins and tents amidst forest gardens. Excellent birdlife around the lodge, with early-morning and dusk birding right on site.

Campsites

Two main campsites on the plateau: one beside KuChawe Inn (with water and showers) and a quieter site at Chitinii Camp on the western rim (basic facilities). Bring your own tent and gear for a budget-friendly night under the stars.

Zomba Town Guesthouses

For cheaper stays, Zomba town offers several guesthouses and B&Bs. You'll need a car or taxi each day to reach the plateau entrance.

Book ahead in high season (Jul-Sep and Dec) as spots fill up. Many birders spend 2-3 nights here. Local operators often bundle accommodation with guided birding tours.

Conclusion - Birding Malawi Beyond Zomba

Zomba Plateau is a highlight of any Malawi birding itinerary. Its unique montane birds and scenic walks complement the lowland parks. Many visitors extend their tour to Liwonde or Majete for plains game and wetland birds after Zomba.

Tour operators like Nyoni Safaris specialize in Malawi birding safaris that combine highland and lowland sites. They note that linking Zomba with other locations can yield hundreds of bird species—from plateau endemics to lake and riverine waterbirds.

In short, Zomba Plateau offers accessible, rewarding birding in Malawi's “high heart.” Whether you self-drive or join a guided trip, be sure to include a day or two here. You'll come for the Yellow-throated Apalis but return with stories of emerald turacos, golden warblers, waterfalls—and perhaps a few bonus sightings of elephants on the plains far below. Happy birding on Zomba Plateau!