Nyika Plateau National Park, Malawi's largest high-altitude park, is a vast wilderness of rolling grasslands, misty montane forests, and rare wildflowers. Straddling the Malawi-Zambia border, Nyika offers exceptional birding with over 400 species, including Denham's Bustard, Crawshay's Francolin, and Mountain Widowbird, plus dramatic landscapes and scenic spots like Chelinda Lodge, Chisanga Falls, and Chowo Forest. Accessible via rugged 4x4 roads from Lilongwe or by charter flights to Chelinda, Nyika is a must-visit for nature lovers seeking cooler climates, stunning vistas, and a tranquil, off-the-beaten-path safari experience. Nyoni Safaris includes Nyika as the highland highlight of its 15-day Malawi birding tour, with 2-3 nights dedicated to exploring this unique plateau.
Nyika Plateau National Park (in northern Malawi) boasts wild, open grasslands and mist-shrouded granite kopjes. The rolling hills and high-altitude vistas here are truly unique – one expert guide called them “wild mountain scenery” with “immense horizons and a thrilling sense of isolation.”
Although not a classic Big Five park, Nyika NP is home to abundant animals and birds. Huge herds of Crawshay’s zebra and Common eland graze the plains, along with Roan antelope, reedbuck, bushbuck and duiker. Predators like spotted hyena and leopards roam by night, and even elephants or lions occasionally wander down from Zambia. With over 400 bird species recorded, birders find specialties everywhere.
Nyika bursts into color in the rainy season. Hundreds of wildflowers – including about 200 orchid species (many endemic) – bloom across the grasslands. The climate is temperate year-round (it can actually be colder in winter than coastal Malawi), making Nyika a refreshing escape from the tropical heat. Its high elevation (up to ~2,600 m at Nganda Hill) means misty mornings and beautiful cloudscapes, perfect for photographers.
Nyika is remote and sparsely visited. You won’t find crowds here, only vast skies and starry nights. Activities range from guided game drives and mountain biking to hiking and birding walks. It’s a naturalist’s paradise where even a short hike can turn up a stunning bird or rare flower.
Nyika NP is a birdwatcher’s paradise with many highland specialists and endemics. Notable species include:
Denham’s Bustard: This large grassland bustard is often seen striding through the plateau. Its booming calls echo over the plains.
Wattled Crane: Once common in Nyika’s marshes, this endangered crane is now rarely seen. Birders still dream of spotting one here.
Red-winged (Crawshay’s) Francolin: A ground-dwelling gamebird unique to the Malawian highlands.
Black-lored Cisticola: A tiny brown warbler that chats constantly in the grasslands. Its distinctive “squeaky-gate” song is a common sound at Chelinda.
Mountain (Montane) Widowbird: A striking orange-and-black grassland bird; breeding males have long tails.
Yellow-browed Seedeater: A localized finch of wet grass and marshy spots.
Chapin’s Apalis: A secretive warbler found in the Hagenia forests and thickets.
Scarlet-tufted Sunbird: Rarely seen, this colorful sunbird lurks in forest edges.
Augur Buzzard, Grey Cuckooshrike, Mountain Thrush: High-altitude birds often seen perched on rocks or among acacias.
Each season brings more – Nyika’s alpine forests and woodlands also host forest specialists like Bar-tailed Trogon, Bar-throated Apalis and Olive-flanked Robin. In summary, expect grassland and forest species – from bustards and widowbirds to trogons and sunbirds – that make Nyika the top birding area in Malawi.
Nyika Plateau NP represents the core of Malawi’s highland birding. It lies within the Southern Rift montane forest–grassland mosaic. At over 2,000 m elevation, its habitats (alpine grassland, heath, montane forest and juniper groves) are unlike Malawi’s lowland parks. Here you’ll find Malawi’s montane specialties – birds adapted to cool, misty skies – and even a few near-endemics only found in Malawi or nearby Tanzania and Zambia. In effect, birding Nyika feels more like searching the East African mountains than Malawi’s hot plains. As one guide put it, visiting Nyika is a “vivid, high-definition birding dream” – a refreshing change after lowland safari parks.
Wet Season (Nov–Apr): This is by far the best time for birding. Migratory and wetland species arrive (e.g. Palearctic warblers, cuckoos), and many birds are in breeding plumage. The plateau is also green and flower-laden. In fact, early summer (Oct–Nov) is considered peak birding: it’s still dry from winter but breeding activity is at its peak. Plan your trip around October–March for maximum sightings and floral displays.
Dry Season (May–Oct): Nyika’s dry season brings clear days but cold nights. Some migrants leave, so bird numbers dwindle, but resident birds (like francolins and cisticolas) remain. Wildlife viewing (e.g. zebras, antelopes) is still good because water is scarcer. The landscape is golden-brown with striking aloes and everlastings. If you visit in this season, bundle up at night! Overall, birdlife is year-round, but the warm, wet months bring the greatest diversity.
The pine forest and Hagenia woodland around Chelinda are bird magnets. The exotic pines attract raptors like Augur Buzzard and Honey Buzzard, plus Yellow-crowned Canaries and wintering Tree Pipits. Below the lodge, damp Hagenia groves and marshy grass host Black-lored Cisticola, Montane Widowbird, Baglafecht Weaver, Ludwig’s Double-collared Sunbird, Mountain Yellow Warbler, and Yellow-browed Seedeater. Don’t miss the nearby small dams (Dam 1, 2, 3): walking to Dam 1 is especially productive, with reed warblers and rails in the marsh below the dam wall.
Driving the loop east of Chelinda (past the dams and open grassland) often yields Denham’s Bustard and visiting Wattled Cranes.
This dramatic waterfall on the west edge is a key spot. The lush stream valley attracts Knob-billed Ducks, Whiskered Terns, and sometimes Denham’s Bustards on the grassy flats above. It’s also a beautiful scenic break.
These small montane forest pockets are heaven for special birds. Chowo Forest is famous for Bar-tailed Trogon, Red-breasted Sparrowhawk, and Chapin’s Apalis. Trails into Manyenjere or Zovo-Chipolo valleys can reveal African Hill Babbler, White-tailed Elminia, and sunbirds.
In the rugged northwestern corner near the Zambia border, miombo woodlands host Angola Swallow, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, and raptors. Elephants and occasional lions roam the lower western slopes.
On clear days, Nyika’s escarpment edges at Domwe and Jalawe offer incredible panoramas and superb raptor-watching (Tawny Eagle, Rüppell’s Vulture). From Jalawe, you can also spot flocks of waterbirds on Lake Malawi and distant elephants on the ridges.
Smaller trails like the Mulligan Trail or the path to Nganda Hill often produce offbeat finds such as Chirping Cisticola or Yellow-throated Seedeater.
In general, be ready to stop wherever you hear or see birds—much of Nyika’s magic is in the unexpected roadside or meadow sightings. Local guides and lodge staff will know exactly where to look for the current specialties.
Nyika Plateau National Park is Malawi’s oldest and largest national park. Founded in 1966, it preserves almost the entire Nyika Plateau—a high massif at the northern tip of Malawi—covering about 3,134 km². Nyika lies across the border with Zambia (where it continues as Zambia’s Nyika National Park). Its name means “where the water comes from,” fittingly referring to its role as a mountain catchment. With altitudes ranging from ~1,500 m at the fringes up to 2,600 m at Nganda Hill (Malawi’s second highest point), Nyika’s open plateau feels like a different world, with mist, cool breezes, and unique “Chiperoni” fogs. Despite its remoteness, the park offers wildlife, birds, scenic waterfalls, and cultural sites in the lowland forests and escarpments.
Nyika was gazetted in 1966 (initially ~900 km²) as Malawi’s first national park and later expanded to its present size. Before independence it was managed as a forest and game reserve by colonial authorities, accessible only by rough tracks. Conservation got a major boost in June 2023, when the Malawi Parks Department signed a 20-year co-management agreement with the Peace Parks Foundation. Today visitor facilities are limited but improving, and archaeological finds (Iron Age mining relics and rock art) hint at Nyika’s long significance to local communities.
About two-thirds of Nyika is short grassland studded with granite hills and endemic wildflowers. The remainder is montane woodland and forests tucked into valleys above 2,250 m, dominated by Hagenia, Afrocarpus pines, juniper, and ferns. Seasonal burns turn the grasslands golden, then rains carpet them with flowers. Rolling hills give way to sheer escarpments—to the west the plateau drops into Zambia’s valley, and to the east toward Lake Malawi’s Rift Valley. The dramatic 120 m Chisanga Falls cascades off the western edge. Exotic pine plantations add a Scotland-on-safari character and even benefit some raptors.
From December to April, Nyika is a floral spectacle. Over 200 orchid species—many endemic—along with lilies, everlastings, and flame lilies carpet the meadows. Drifts of red Kniphofia, yellow hawkweeds, and white St. John’s Wort fill the grasslands. Guides call Nyika “the richest concentration of wild orchids in southern Africa.” A simple walk to Chelinda Dam 1 can become a botany expedition. (Tip: late-winter burns clear old grass and actually promote the wet-season blooms.)
Nyika’s fauna is dominated by highland specialists. Herds of Crawshay’s zebra, Common eland, Roan antelope, and reedbuck graze the plains, with bushbuck in thickets. Over 85 mammal species have been recorded. Predators include spotted hyenas and jackals by night, and leopards at high density (though sightings are rare). Elephants, lions, and wild dogs occasionally wander down from Zambia. Smaller mammals like warthogs, bushpigs, mongooses, civets, and genets pepper the park.
While the big five are not prominent, Nyika’s unique mix of zebra, antelope, and occasional predators amid vast grassland creates a classic highland scene. Night drives from Chelinda offer glimpses of nocturnal carnivores, and daytime game drives reward patient watchers with grazing zebras and antelopes.
Spanning about 3,134 km², Nyika is Malawi’s largest protected area, covering almost the entire plateau except its eastern edge above Lake Malawi. It sits in Rumphi District, roughly 500 km north of Lilongwe. The western border is the Zambia–Malawi international boundary, forming a transfrontier conservation area with Zambia’s Nyika NP. Elevations range from 1,500 m to 2,600 m (Nganda Hill). The park’s remoteness and border location make visiting Nyika feel like venturing to the edge of wilderness.
Nyika is in northern Malawi, so access from Tanzania is indirect. There is no direct road from Tanzania’s east, but a common route is to cross from southern Tanzania into Malawi via the Songwe/Kasumulu border near Mbeya. From there you drive west through Karonga town and south to Rumphi. The Malawian road then turns east off the main highway toward Nyika. This journey (Dar es Salaam → Mbeya → Karonga → Rumphi → Nyika) is long (~800–900 km) and rough in places; a sturdy 4×4 is highly recommended.
Another option is to enter from Zambia’s Kasama or Mpika via Chisenga Road into Zambia’s Nyika Park, then cross at the Zambian edge of Nyika—though this requires special permits and local guidance. In practice, most people fly into Malawi and start at Lilongwe or Blantyre. (Note: Visitors should always check current border and visa requirements. The roads near Nyika can be challenging when wet, so plan extra time.)
By far the most common approach is to fly into Kamuzu International Airport (LLW) in Lilongwe or Chileka Airport (BLZ) in Blantyre, then drive north. From Lilongwe, take the M1 highway through Kasungu and Mzuzu up to Rumphi. Turn right onto the Nyika road at Rumphi for Thazima Gate. The distance from Lilongwe to Nyika’s Thazima entrance is roughly 500 km—about an 8-hour drive. From Blantyre it’s even longer (12+ hours). The final stretch from Thazima Gate to Chelinda Lodge (the main park HQ) is another ~80 km on a rough gravel road (allow 2 more hours). The road into the park requires a 4×4, especially in rainy months. Many tour operators arrange this leg, and most travelers split the journey with an overnight stop in Mzuzu or at Viphya Forest Lodge near Mzimba.
There are no scheduled commercial flights directly to Nyika, but charter flights can land on the small Chelinda airstrip (1,500 m runway) if booked in advance. These can be arranged from Lilongwe via local charter services.
The centerpiece of Nyika’s lodging is Chelinda Lodge (formerly Wilderness Safaris’ base). Perched at 2,300 m, Chelinda Lodge offers rustic luxury with panoramic views of the plateau. The lodge has seven pine-log cabins (each with a private bathroom and fireplace) clustered around a common reception and dining room. Large wooden decks invite you to soak up the endless rolling hills, and the cozy lounge (complete with board games and a library) is perfect for relaxing after a day’s exploring.
Chelinda Lodge is fully serviced: it includes meals and (unlike self-catering camp) offers guides for game drives. Meals are hearty–think flaming hot breakfasts and evening braais around a campfire. In summary, Chelinda Lodge is comfortable, ecotourist-friendly and the most ‘turnkey’ option in the park. (It’s often booked well in advance during peak season.)
Aside from Chelinda Lodge, lodging on the plateau itself is very limited:
Chelinda Camp Chalets: About 100 m downhill from the lodge are 4 simple two-bedroom cottages (Chelinda Camp). Built in the 1960s, these self-catering chalets offer basic kitchenettes. A small dining hall is available for guests. Electricity and water are primitive, but the location is excellent for independent travelers. (Reservations are typically made through Malawi Parks.)
Chelinda Campsite: On a hillside above the camp is Nyika’s lone official campground (est. 1983). It has a few plot sites, covered shelters for eating, and an ablution block. You must bring your own tent and cooking gear. Camping here immerses you in the park’s sounds and allows flexibility.
Backpacking/Hostel: For budget youth, there is a very basic bunkhouse (“student hostel”) built by the park, with shared latrines and a communal kitchen (more for school groups). It is plain but functional for those on a shoestring.
Private Lodges Outside Park: There are no other lodges inside Nyika NP beyond Chelinda. Outside the park, the nearest accommodations are in Rumphi town (small guesthouses and B&Bs). Some travelers choose to stay at Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve (30 km west) or in Malawi’s Nyika foothills before/after their plateau visit.
In sum, Chelinda (Lodge or Camp) and the campsite are your only real lodging choices on the plateau itself. Advance booking (or arranging through a tour operator) is essential. For comfort, we usually recommend staying at Chelinda Lodge for at least a night or two.
On Nyoni Safaris’ signature 15-day Malawi birding itinerary, Nyika Plateau is one of the major highlights. Typically scheduled mid-trip (after lower-altitude sites like Liwonde or Vwaza Marsh), Nyika provides our birders with the thrilling change of scenery and species that come with Malawi’s only highland park.
We usually plan to spend 2–3 nights at Chelinda (or the camp) as our base in Nyika. This allows time for early-morning and late-afternoon drives, plus guided walks or night drives. Because Nyoni’s tour is timed for peak birding season, we target Nyika during October–March (breeding season and migrants). On those days, we’ll seek out the plateau endemics and range-restricted species of Nyika (such as Denham’s Bustard, Yellow-browed Seedeater and various cisticolas) that you won’t see in lowland Malawi.
In essence, Nyika fits into the tour as the “highland chapter.” It contrasts beautifully with the rainforest and lakeshore phases of the trip. After Nyika, participants return to lower elevations (like Nkhata Bay or Lake Malawi) with a substantially longer bird list. We weave in local cultural stops (like Livingstonia Mission on the way out) and make sure to enjoy the lodge life at Chelinda with a night sky view and perhaps a nocturnal wildlife drive.
By the end of Nyika, our birders have often added dozens of new species—from scarlet-tufted sunbird to mountain marsh widowbird—and they leave with memories of Malawi’s grandest wilderness plateau.