Birding in Lilongwe

by Eugene Booysen

Birding in Lilongwe may surprise first-time visitors, as Malawi's capital is not just a bustling city but also a green oasis. The city stretches along the winding Lilongwe River and was established as the national capital in 1975. Despite its growth, Lilongwe retains wild corners, from riverside woodlands to city parks, that attract numerous birds.

Malawi itself is home to around 650 bird species, many of which can be found in the capital region. For instance, the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre alone has over 200 species recorded on its trails and at its riverside bird hide. Birding in Lilongwe is well supported by friendly guides, lodges like Kumbali Country Lodge (which has its own forest reserve), and clubs such as the Wildlife and Environmental Society of Malawi (WESM). All of this makes Lilongwe a welcoming hub for birdwatchers starting their Malawi adventure.

Lilongwe's green parks and reserves are home to vibrant species like the Black-headed Weaver (pictured), along with turacos, sunbirds, kingfishers, and more. Central Lilongwe may seem urban, but nature is never far away. The city's “Warm Heart of Africa” charm extends to its birding culture — with easy access, friendly people, and a surprising diversity of habitats (wetlands, woodlands, scrub, and gardens) drawing both beginners and experts out with binoculars.

In short, Lilongwe offers birders a blend of convenience and wilderness.

Top Birding Hotspots in Lilongwe

Lilongwe Wildlife Centre (Trust)

This large forest reserve along the Lingadzi River is Lilongwe's best-known birding spot. It features well-maintained trails and even a riverside bird hide. Birdwatchers here can encounter species such as Schalow's Turaco, Giant Kingfisher, Hamerkop, Scimitarbill, and Square-tailed Drongo, often at close range. The reserve hosts over 200 bird species. Nearby, visitors may also spot small mammals and enjoy beautiful scenery, making it an ideal location for a half-day walk.

At the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre, you might see a stately Hamerkop fishing in the river, while other woodland birds sing in the trees. The reserve has a network of circular trails through dry riverine forest and offers maps, picnic sites, a café, and restroom facilities. Admission is very affordable, costing around 2,000 MK (~$2) per person, and the quiet trails provide excellent birding opportunities year-round.

Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary

Right in the city's Area 10 district, this shaded park features a short loop trail past riverine woodland and scrub. It's good for dawn or dusk birding - local guides note that species like Olive Sunbird and Red-throated Twinspot can be seen here. Walk quietly along the Lingadzi stream and keep an eye (and ear) out for sunbirds, barbets and owls. The Sanctuary is also popular with joggers and families, but it rewards the patient birdwatcher with a peaceful taste of Malawi's bushland inside town.

The Woodlands Lilongwe (boutique lodge)

The Woodlands hotel sits in a riverfront nature park on the city's west side. Formerly called Sanctuary Lodge, it's a lush private reserve of 9 hectares of indigenous Miombo woodland. The hotel's thatched chalets have verandas overlooking gardens and forest. Birdlife here is prolific - resident species include miombo specialists as well as forest edge birds. Inventtour notes that the protected park has “prolific birdlife” along with monkeys, bushpigs, duikers and even crocodiles. Even if you don't stay overnight, the Woodlands is often visited by birders and offers lunch or tea in a wild setting.

Kauma Sewage Ponds (Area 12)

This series of treated water ponds on Lilongwe's north side (off Airport Road) is a hidden gem for waterbirds. Hacktivate's birding guide describes it as “great” despite the unusual. The first ponds near the road are smelly, but beyond a small hill lies a calm wetlands area with dozens of ducks, herons, stilts and plovers. Over 20 species of duck and many waders can be found, and odd migrants sometimes show up - e.g. an American Skimmer and African Wattled Lapwing were recorded. Bring a scope for best viewing of the large pond area, which is surrounded by some Acacia scrub and riverine trees.

Dzalanyama Forest Reserve

About an hour west of Lilongwe lies Dzalanyama Forest, Malawi's premier Miombo-woodland birding area. This vast 100,000-hectare reserve along the Zambian border is lauded as “one of the finest Miombo spots globally”t. Birders go for specials like Green Barbet, Livingstone's and Purple-crested Turacos, and until proven elsewhere, the endemic Cholo Alethe. Dzalanyama is only ~58 km from Lilongwe, but the dirt roads can be rough and full of birds. Many tours (and the local Dzalanyama Forest Lodge) make it a day-trip or 2-night stop. The hike among huge Brachystegia (Miombo) trees is unforgettable, with bird parties that explode with colourful targets after quiet stretches. Dzalanyama is best in the breeding season (wet season into early summer) when migrant warblers and cuckoos visit the canopy.

Area 10 Residential Gardens

Lilongwe’s upmarket Area 10 has tree-filled streets and big gardens that harbor surprisingly rich birdlife. Many old trees and flowering shrubs remain from pre-city times, attracting forest species into the neighbourhood. Walking the quiet lanes early in the morning, you can find birds like barbets, broadbills, white-eyes and woodpeckers. In fact, local birders often start their day at the Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary (in Area 10) then continue birding from house to house. For visitors, lodging in Area 10 (see below) means birding can even begin right from your hotel garden!

Lilongwe, Overview and Nearby Destinations

Lilongwe is not only a birding hub but also Malawi’s bustling capital city and transport center. It sits at about 1,050 m elevation in the Central Region, near the borders with Zambia and. The city actually has two halves: a quiet Old Town market area and the modern Capital Hill area with government offices. Unlike the humid lowland parks, Lilongwe’s climate is dry-wet tropical, so birding can be done year-round (though March–June are hottest, and May–November sees the winter raptors).

Despite its urban role, Lilongwe provides easy access to Malawi’s other top nature sites:

Lake Malawi (the Great Rift Lake)

The lake's western shore is about a 2-3 hour drive (100-200 km) east of Lilongwe. The closest access is via Salima town (about 98 km away). From Salima you can continue to sites like Monkey Bay or Kande Beach. Boat trips to Likoma or Mumbo Island start at Nkhata Bay (~160 km north of Lilongwe via Mzimba road). Travel tip: Highway A1 leads from Lilongwe to Salima and Mangochi; the road is paved and in good condition. Many bird tours include Lake Malawi on the itinerary (often by private transfer or scenic ferry).

Liwonde National Park

Malawi's premier southern savanna park (Shire River) is about 230-240 km south of Lilongwe. A direct drive via Zomba and Blantyre takes roughly 3'4 hours. Buses also run daily toward Blantyre or Zomba with stops at Liwonde. Liwonde is famous for marsh birds and safaris (lots of fish eagles, bee-eaters, kingfishers), so many birding itineraries will head there after Lilongwe. The road passes through farmland and small towns, and the final approach crosses the Shire River into park gates.

Nyika National Park (Northern Highlands)

Nyika is far from Lilongwe (about 500 km). The road trip to the park’s entrance at Thazima takes 8+ hours on rough, gravel roads (usually a 4x4 is needed). Instead, most visitors fly via Lilongwe to Mzuzu city and drive ~2 hours from there to Nyika. (Alternatively you can stay overnight in Mzuzu or Kasungu.) Nyika Plateau is a montane cool grassland with many Albertine Rift endemics (e.g. Roberts’s Warbler, Yellow-browed Seedeater). For a birding tour, Nyika often concludes the trip by air.

Accommodation in Lilongwe

For an easy birding trip start, most visitors stay in Lilongwe itself. The leafy Area 10 district is a popular choice: it’s one of the safest, upmarket parts of town and within walking distance of the city centre. Small boutique hotels and guesthouses here, like Annie’s Lodge or Bird Haven, are set in large evergreen gardens. These properties offer spacious rooms, en-suite facilities, reliable power, and often have a resident birdlife. Waking up to the songs of bulbuls, weavers or even woodpeckers is common in Area 10 lodgings. You’ll also be close to Lilongwe’s restaurants and the Wildlife Centre, making birding along street-side gardens convenient.

Another top choice is Kumbali Country Lodge, just outside the city (~10 km from the centre). This family-run farm lodge is surrounded by 650 hectares of woodland and gardens. Kumbali’s rooms look onto lush greenery, and the dining room often hosts resident owls on the ceiling! One staff member noted that birdwatching “is a fun way to while away time in the sunshine” on their grounds. The lodge is praised for home-grown food, friendly service, and a real “home away from home” vibe. Birders love Kumbali because you can stroll the farm trails at dusk or dawn and spot turacos, bats, and trogons.

Other recommended places include Woodlands Lilongwe (a luxury safari-style hotel, see above) and the Zambian-owned Golden Peacock Lodge at the edge of the city. Many guided Malawi tours will stay one or two nights at Kumbali or Woodlands in Lilongwe. In general, book in advance and mention you’re interested in birding or forest walks – many lodges can arrange a local guide.

Birding Tours in Malawi

After soaking up Lilongwe’s miombo and city birds, Lake Malawi is a highlight you won’t want to miss – especially if you’re on Nyoni Safaris’ 15-day Malawi birding itinerary. The lake’s warm, clear waters and palm-lined shores host a whole new set of species. Lake Malawi attracts colonies of waterbirds and shorebirds, and indeed “pride of place must be given to the African Fish Eagle” – Malawi’s national bird. In fact, there are said to be more Fish Eagles here than anywhere else in the world! Listen for the eagle’s loud call, or watch it swoop down for fish.

Along the shore, you can also see collared palm thrushes and palm swifts among the fronds, agile pied kingfishers diving for small fish, and weaver birds (golden or brown-throated) in the reeds. White-breasted cormorants often perch on buoys, and if you’re lucky you might glimpse a lumbering giant marabou stork by the water’s edge. Visiting Lake Malawi National Park (a UNESCO site at Cape Maclear) also means encountering hippos and sawfish if you kayak or snorkel, but for birders the scene is magical – endless sky and water full of life.

On Nyoni Safaris's tour, Lake Malawi usually comes at the end of the birding route. It offers a refreshing contrast of scenery and species, from the water's blues to its fish-eagle-accompanied sunsets. Whether you boat to Likoma Island or relax at a beach lodge, the birds here are unforgettable. In short, no Malawi birding trip is truly complete without a stop by the lake – it’s the final chapter of your adventure, set to the soundtrack of waterbirds and proud Malawian raptors.